Most tile installation mistakes happen before a tile is touched. The layout decisions, substrate prep, and adhesive technique either set the job up or create problems you will not find until weeks later. Here is how we approach it.
Layout Planning
Start from center, not from a wall. Walls are rarely perfectly square, and starting from a corner almost always results in a narrow cut on the visible end or a layout that does not look balanced. Find the center of the space, snap a chalk line, and plan the layout from there.
Do a dry layout first. Put tiles down without adhesive to see exactly how the cuts will fall and whether the grout lines will land in a good place relative to fixtures, thresholds, and adjacent surfaces. What looks fine in your head often looks different on the floor. Dry layout is the time to find that out.
Substrate Flatness
The Tile Council of North America calls for a maximum variation of 1/8 inch in 10 feet for standard tile, and 1/16 inch in 10 feet for large-format tile. Check flatness with a straightedge before you start. High spots need to come down and low spots need to be filled. Tiling over a substrate that is not flat results in lippage, cracked tiles, and tiles that pop off over time.
Adhesive and Coverage
Use the right adhesive for the tile and substrate. Larger format tile needs a larger-notch trowel. Back-butter large tiles in addition to spreading adhesive on the substrate. The goal is full contact between the tile and the adhesive bed. A tile that is bridging over a void will crack under load.
Check your coverage by pulling a few tiles after setting them. You want to see full coverage on the back of the tile. If you are seeing bare spots, change your trowel size or technique before you commit to a large area.
Setting Tile
Set each tile with a slight twisting motion to collapse the trowel ridges and get full contact. Tap with a rubber mallet. Use spacers or clips to keep grout joints consistent. Check your work frequently with a level and a straightedge. Small adjustments are easy mid-installation. Corrections after the adhesive has cured are not.
Transitions and Edges
Use Schluter trim profiles at tile edges, transitions to other flooring, and outside corners. They protect the tile edge and give you a finished look without relying on caulk alone. For mitered corners on natural stone, cut the miter and epoxy the corner before grouting. The epoxy keeps the joint from opening up over time, which is where mitered corners typically fail.
Grouting
Do not rush the grout. Let the setting adhesive cure fully first. Mix grout to manufacturer specs, work in manageable sections, and clean the surface before the haze starts to set. See the grouting guide for a full breakdown of that process.